XL Food & Drink: The XL Sampler Plate

50 brief reviews from restaurant critic Dale Rice

From American to steakhouses and everything in between.

By Dale Rice
AMERICAN-STATESMAN RESTAURANT CRITIC
Wednesday, November 15, 2006

AMERICAN

EZ's. A major leap above fast food, EZ's serves excellent pizzas, burgers and hand-dipped milkshakes in an old-fashioned soda-fountain atmosphere. Forks up. Cheap. 3918 N. Lamar Blvd. 302-1800.

Freddie's Place. This South First Street restaurant is packing them in with live music and a popular happy hour, relying mostly on old favorites. The menu includes a good chicken-fried steak and burger, with old-fashioned sides such as green bean casserole and homemade onion rings. Forks up. Cheap. 1703 S. First St. 445-9197.

Gene's. This Cajun and soul-food restaurant puts simple, down-home fare on the table. The po' boys are excellent, especially the shrimp and oyster ones, and the soul food specials, such as Thursday's smothered pork chops, are tasty and filling. Forks up. Cheap. 1209 E. 11th St. 477-6600.

Hoover's Cooking. Old-fashioned comfort food — meatloaf with a spicy tomato sauce, fried catfish, chicken-fried steak, barbecued chicken — with sides in the same vein: pinto beans, green beans with bacon, brightly colored cole slaw, macaroni and cheese, mashed potatoes. Homemade desserts include pecan pie, coconut cream pie and blackberry cobbler. Forks up. Cheap. 2002 Manor Road. 479-5006.

AMERICAN BISTRO

Driskill Grill. Dinner at the Driskill delivers captivating dishes, with a confluence of flavor, texture and presentation. From the white asparagus salad with fresh Spanish anchovies to African prawns with chorizo and charred tomatoes, the leadership of executive chef David Bull continues to inspire. Expensive. 604 Brazos St. 391-7162.

Eastside Cafe. It's comfortable and relaxed and offers real value for the money. And I like the emphasis on fresh herbs and vegetables, often from the garden behind the old house. Sesame catfish with garlic mashed potatoes, wild mushroom crêpes, field green salad with raspberry vinaigrette and warm goat cheese, chocolate silk pie and cherry cobbler are all favorites. Moderate. 2113 Manor Road. 476-5858.

1886 Cafe & Bakery. The renovated all-day dining venue at the Driskill Hotel is steeped in a historical ambience, but the new desserts and modern sandwiches beckon most: ethereal cheesecake, decadent chocolate mousse cake, paninis or meatloaf. Forks up. Moderate. 604 Brazos St. 391-7121.

Fino. Emmett and Lisa Fox's second location (they also run Asti) has been a big success, with delightful fare, snappy service and a sophisticated ambience. The menu features 'small plates,' such as fried calamari, lamb-beef meatballs and Middle Eastern dips and 'big plates' such as lamb chops, braised cod and a terrific coq au vin. Moderate/expensive. 2905 San Gabriel St. 474-2905.

Green Pastures. One of Austin's strongest three-star restaurants improves with the years. It has a welcoming Victorian ambience and food designed for today's diners. Strong items included fried eggplant with shrimp, crab and crawfish; tomato-basil soup; spinach salad; smoked prime rib-eye; and bread pudding. Expensive. 811 W. Live Oak St. 444-1888.

Hill Country Grill. This San Marcos spot occupies a bank building made famous in movies and by the Newton brothers crime gang. Good choices include an eggroll version of a Reuben sandwich, grilled shrimp and well-made salads. Moderate/expensive. 100 W. Hopkins St., San Marcos. (512) 396-6100.

ASIAN

Buffet Palace. The dozens of Asian dishes at the sleek, minimalist building were a mixed bag. The hot and sour soup and baked mussels were disappointing, while the teriyaki chicken and eggrolls were acceptable. The salmon and eel sushi, as well as the baked salmon and tempura vegetables, were worth a second trip. Forks up. Cheap. 4608 West Gate Blvd. 892-1800.

BARBECUE

Bert's Bar-B-Q. Founded by the late Bert Johnson in 1970 on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, the family-owned chain puts out a nice variety of 'cue, including chicken, brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey and sausage. Cheap. 3563 Far West Blvd., No. 109. 345-2378. Other locations: 610 W. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd. 474-2613. 1200 S. U.S. 290. 288-7879.

Big John's Bar-B-Que Steak Barn. Between Llano and Burnet, this Friday-to-Sunday barbecue spot produces brisket with a deep, smoky flavor. You can practically taste the coals. Homemade sides include a nonsweet potato salad. Cheap/moderate. 1431 Texas 29, Buchanan Dam. (512) 793-2261.

Big Oak Bar-B-Que. Consistently good across the board, this joint delivers great chicken, pork ribs, brisket, turkey, chopped beef and pulled pork. Homemade sides include a sweet cole slaw, lightly spicy beans and a fabulous potato salad with parsley and red onion. Cheap/moderate. 210 S. Main St., Buda. 312-1947.

Black's Barbecue. Customers wait patiently to go through the slow, cafeteria-style line to select cold salads and hot items to go with the meats, such as smoky pork loin or fatty brisket. Operating since 1932, this joint claims to be the oldest barbecue spot in Texas continuously owned by the same family. Forks up. Moderate. 208 N. Main St., Lockhart. (512) 398-2712.

BURGERS

Dan's. Founded by the late Dan Junk 30 years ago, Dan's will put a burger on toast if requested. Pair with homemade onion rings. Forks up. Cheap. 4308 Manchaca Road. 443-6131.

Dirty Martin's Place. Known far and wide as 'Dirty's,' this joint has been flipping burgers since 1926, making it the oldest burger joint in town. The D.H. special sandwiches a patty between slices of cheese with grilled onions, tomato and pickle on toast. Forks up. Cheap. 2808 Guadalupe St. 477-3173.

CAFES

The Bakehouse. One of the few independent, full-service, neighborhood restaurants in the city, it opens early for breakfast with good pancakes, French toast and omelets and stays open late for dinner with an eclectic menu that takes a global approach. Good dinner options include the escargot-stuffed mushroom appetizer and the chicken-fried steak. Forks up. Cheap. 5404 Manchaca Road. 443-5167.

Blue Bonnet Cafe. One of Texas' classic cafes, the Blue Bonnet in Marble Falls has something to satisfy practically every home-cooking hankering. The chicken-fried steak and the pot roast are excellent. Save room for the cafe's famous pies, many of which are topped with mounds of meringue 6 inches high. Forks up. Cheap. 211 U.S. 281, Marble Falls. (830) 693-2344.

CHINESE

Chinatown. Owner Ronald Cheng's 'chef's specialties' include Hunan duck rolls, rabbit in orange sauce and 'two little lambs' (one sweet, the other spicy). The atmosphere is upscale, with red and black walls, red lacquered chairs and tables covered in white linen. Cheap/moderate. 3407 Greystone Drive. 343-9307.

Chinatown South. The key word here is 'light.' Dishes as disparate as beef on a flaming platter, shrimp cooked in foil and chicken with candied walnuts are united in spirit: Each has a delicious, light, savory sauce that augments rather than overwhelms the dish. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 3300 Bee Cave Road. 327-6588.

CONTINENTAL/FRENCH

Bordeaux's. This new upscale restaurant in the heart of Kyle combines Cajun and Continental influences. Tasty dishes include a wonderful smoked pork chop, a butternut squash soup finished with cream and white wine, fried strips of portobello mushroom and chocolate cake. Moderate/expensive. 108 Center St., Kyle. (512) 268-3463.

Cafe at the Four Seasons. Consistently one of the city's Top 10 restaurants, the cafe offers exquisite appetizers and entrees, with service to match. The Kobe beef tartar, coated with tempura flakes, was exceptional. Duck breast with sour cherry marmalade and sea bass in a lemon grass broth demonstrated how succulent the main course can be. 98 San Jacinto Blvd. 685-8300.

GREEK

Athenian Grill. Full-service Greek cuisine has come downtown for dinner. This casual, cafeteria-style spot at lunch offers wait service at night. In addition to the delectable assortment of traditional appetizers, the combination plate features gyro and chicken, with several other items such as cheese pie and a meatball. Forks up. Moderate. 705 Colorado St. 482-8988.

Konstantino's. Billing itself as serving 'Thessalonika style Greek dishes and New York style Italian dishes,' Konstantino's is adding to the culinary diversity in Bastrop. Tasty Greek fare includes a sample platter of appetizers, souvlaki (grilled pork tenderloin) and traditional desserts such as baklava. A good Italian offering is the grilled eggplant Parmesan. Forks up. Moderate. 1412 W. Texas 71, Bastrop. 581-3232.

ITALIAN/MEDITERRANEAN

Carmelo's. This lovely upscale Italian restaurant in a historic building in downtown Austin delivers on the classics, such as fettuccine carbonara, veal piccata and chocolate profiteroles. Expensive. 504 E. Fifth St. 477-7497.

Carrabba's Italian Grill. With an impressive level of service, particularly for families, this should be a chain of choice for Austin diners. Excellent appetizers include the fried calamari and mussels steamed in white wine, while the veal Marsala and chicken-filled 'mezzaluna' ravioli are tasty entrees. Moderate. 6406 N. Interstate 35 (Lincoln Village). 419-1220.

Ciola's. This casual red-sauce restaurant in Lakeway is serving some of the best lasagna in Texas, along with delicious mussels in a spicy tomato sauce, homemade sausage (with lots of fennel seed) and baked gnocchi. Forks up. Moderate. 1310 S. RM 620, Suite C-1. 263- 9936.

Cipollina. A neighborhood, Italian-style deli owned by Jeffrey's with a case full of prepared items — from pasta and meat to pricey side dishes — that can be heated on the spot for lunch. It also makes a thin-crust pizza more like that of Italy than most places. Forks up. Moderate. 1213 West Lynn St. 477-5211.

Craig O's Pizza & Pastaria. This South Austin independent Italian restaurant appears to be a big hit. It offers tasty pizza on thick or New York style thin crust, a range of pasta dishes (including a baked spinach ziti) and generous salads. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 4970 W. U.S. 290, Suite 460. 891-7200.

Hill Country Pasta House. This spot near Mansfield Dam can satisfy your craving for good Italian fare. The thin-crust, wood-fired pizzas and classic pastas fill the plate with traditional Italian food that's fairly hard to find in Austin. Forks up. Moderate. 3519 N. RM 620. 266-9445.

JAPANESE

Kobe Japanese Steakhouse. Kobe might have the best food of the growing number of Japanese grill and sushi places in Austin, but a slip in service cost it a star. The sushi offered fresh fish and colorful presentations, and the grilled meats and fish were full of flavor. Moderate/expensive. 13492 Research Blvd., Suite 380. 288-7333.

Shogun. A South Austin neighborhood alternative to high-design Japanese show restaurants. The fresh, clean-tasting sushi included large yellowtail and tuna portions, and the spicy salmon skin and eel rolls shared accolades with the unusual 'tiger eyes' roll, with salmon and avocado inside a thick cover of grilled squid. Moderate. 1807 W. Slaughter Lane, No. 225. 292-1580.

MEXICAN

Chuy's. The Mexican restaurant with the New Mexican twist belongs on an Austin dining map. Good — and reasonably priced — dishes include the appetizer plate, Chuychanga (a chicken burrito) and Rio Grande enchiladas (with carne guisada). Forks up. Cheap. 1728 Barton Springs Road. 474-4452.

Cilantro's Mexican Restaurant. This tiny, seven-table restaurant makes up in flavor what it lacks in size. Delicious dishes include the chori huevos (a breakfast item made with over-easy eggs and chorizo salsa), the fish fillets topped with fried garlic, the heated salsa and the homemade flan. Forks up. Cheap. 1025 Stassney Lane. 707-1207.

Curra's Grill. One of South Austin's most popular spots offers top-quality interior Mexican cooking. Recommendations: escabeche (pickled carrots, cauliflower, onions, garlic and jalapeños); punta de filete (chunks of beef tenderloin sautéed with mushrooms in a zesty chipotle sauce); and cochinita pibil (a traditional Yucatán dish of shredded pork leg cooked in a banana leaf). Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 614 E. Oltorf St. 444-0012. And 6801 Burnet Road. 451-2560.

Dario's Restaurant. Treats diners with equally good attitude and food. Fine lunches include green chicken enchiladas with rice, beans and guacamole, and the señorita special, with a crispy beef taco, guacamole salad and a cheese enchilada with chili con carne. The queso is tasty, too. Forks up. Cheap. 1800 E. Sixth St. 479-8105.

Dina's Mexican Restaurant. Tucked in the back corner of a strip shopping center, this unobtrusive restaurant is worth seeking out. Tasty items included the green salsa, migas, fajitas, enchiladas Mexicanas and the combo with a chile relleno, tamal and enchilada plus sides. Forks up. Cheap. 730 W. Stassney Lane, No. 130. 428-9425.

El Arroyo. An Austin institution (and a chain with three other locations), El Arroyo features good Tex-Mex food in a laid-back setting. For alternatives to the standard fare, try the bacon-wrapped shrimp diablo, the plump spinach enchiladas, the tequila chicken breast and fried ice cream. Forks up. Cheap. 1624 W. Fifth St. 474-1222.

El Azteca. Nearly four decades in the same family. The Guerra family keeps the Tex-Mex spot hopping with lots of heat. Jalapeños in the fresh salsa, jalapeños in the queso and jalapeños on the nachos, while the beans a la charra are among the spiciest (and best) I've had. Forks up. Cheap. 2600 E. Seventh St. 477-4701.

El Borrego de Oro. Once located on South First Street, this place has reopened on South Congress Avenue, and the food is as good in the new spot as it was in the previous one. Delightful dishes include the birria (a spicy lamb soup), carne a la Mexicana (grilled beef, onions, tomatoes and peppers) and chicken with chipotle sauce. Forks up. Cheap. 3900 S. Congress Ave. 383-0031.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Alborz Persian Cuisine. A lunch buffet worth going out for. The spread at this Persian restaurant features tasty hot dishes, including rice with sour cherries, saffron rice with chicken, squash and tomato stew, celery stew, baked chicken and ground beef kabobs. Forks up. Cheap. 3300 W. Anderson Lane, No. 303. 420-2222.

Ararat. A small, popular Middle Eastern restaurant, serving mainly Turkish and Persian dishes, with a mix of other countries. There are many good options, including the sizzling lamb and a vegetarian entree of bell peppers stuffed with rice, mushrooms, nuts and pomegranate seeds. Forks up. Moderate. 111 E. North Loop Blvd. 419-1692.

PIZZA

Brick Oven. It doesn't get much better than this: a crisp, thin crust baked in a 100-year-old, wood-fired oven that imparts a light smoky flavor, with a good layer of sauce and mozzarella. Toppings included roasted portobello mushrooms, prosciutto and melted Gorgonzola. Forks up. Cheap/moderate. 1209 Red River St. 477-7006.

Brooklyn Pie Co. If you savor pizza crust as much as artisan bread, head to this pizzeria in the La Frontera shopping center. Its outstanding crust is made daily from a 60-year-old family recipe and topped with high-quality ingredients. Forks up. Moderate. 2711 La Frontera Blvd., Suite 330, Round Rock. 255-1414.

SEAFOOD

Eddie V's Edgewater Grill. Downtown or at the Arboretum, Eddie V's is one of Austin's strongest seafood restaurants. Particularly good items included the all lump crab cake, the fried oysters with Thai chile sauce (so fiery they should be eaten only after other appetizers) and the sautéed grouper. The Gulf snapper was lovely, with golden fillets topped with lump crab meat and lemon chive butter. Save room for dessert, particularly the coconut cream pie. Moderate/expensive. 9400-B Arboretum Blvd. 342-2642. 301 E. Fifth St. 472-1860.

SOUTHWESTERN

Hudson's on the Bend. Chef-owner Jeff Blank and executive chef Robert Rhoades showcase their strengths with the 'Five Species Creature Feature,' featuring pheasant, kangaroo, salmon, venison and alligator, each with its own sauce. Service, dessert and ambience — along with outstanding lobster risotto, guajillo-crusted flounder and venison rack — made for a perfect experience. Expensive. 3509 RM 620 N. 266-1369.

STEAKHOUSES

Cool River Cafe. One of the largest restaurants in Texas combines an upscale steakhouse and bar under one roof. On the meal side, the filet mignon served on a portobello mushroom cap with brandy peppercorn sauce was a winner. Good salads and big desserts augment the steaks. Expensive. 4001 Parmer Lane. 835-0010.

Dan McKlusky's. The shrimp cocktail with cucumber-corn relish and the fall-apart blue crab cakes were excellent starters at this bustling, friendly Sixth Street spot. The certified Angus beef tenderloin could easily be cut with a fork, and the strip steak was coated with black peppercorns and topped with cognac cream sauce. For dessert, try the individual apple cake, baked in a mason jar. Expensive. 301 E. Sixth St. 473-8924.

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar. The meats, service and ambience are outstanding, but some of the appetizers and sides aren't of equal quality. Favorites include the crab cakes, New York strip, veal chop, onion rings, sautéed mushrooms and chocolate lava cake. Expensive. 320 E. Second St., 457-1500.